England: Much to Like

I've always been drawn to the northwestern islands off the coast of Europe. In fact, I'm sure I've had a past life here; perhaps as a newsboy in Victorian England. One of the purposes of shamanism is not only to connect with your life totems and power animals but also to commune with your ancestors and guardian angels. And there are some places in the "Middle World" (or what we call Non-Ordinary Reality) that are more conducive with one's individual psychography, past, or spiritual composition. English people, out of all the island peoples, would be the first to call me mad or batty were I to broach this subject. The English are known to be champions of logic and linear thinking, a no-nonsense people.




In the other member countries of the United Kingdom, there seems to be more magic. It could be that the others are nowhere near as densely populated. There is something remarkably twee about Ireland, Wales, and Scotland and their attendant native peoples, as if their folklore still has a presence. The English? They are highly organized and didactic and have a killer sense of humour but twee is not the first word that comes to mind. In fact, I've met a couple of English people who dismiss Downton Abbey for being too twee; the gay community in the US would faint like Lady Mary at this insult. 





ENGLAND: MUCH TO LIKE


     There is much to like about England. Yes, they have had a rocky relationship with Ireland but the last twenty years have been a golden era in relations. Since the Good Friday Agreement of 1998 (in my opinion, Bill Clinton's biggest success) coupled with the intelligence-sharing aftermath of the 9/11 atrocities, the UK and Ireland have been closer and more cooperative than ever. Since Brexit of course, things have gotten a little tense. In many ways, each nation state has their own spirit and personality. The Irish, for instance, are more than happy and comfortable in belonging to a big family which is why Ireland has some of the highest satisfaction rates out of the 28 member EU states (O'Donnell, 2019). The UK, and in England in particular, has always been more of an iconoclast, willing to go their own way and be pioneers on every count imaginable and at every historical turn. 


Because of this, even though I have deep roots in Ireland, I also am a fan of England. I wouldn't be surprised if the Kilduffs and/or Dohertys had some English blood. Shared ancestry is quite common. One researcher found that over 6 million people in the UK have an Irish grandparent and would be entitled to an Irish passport (Maybin, 2016).


Enough about the past. Enough with demographics. 


Here are the highlights of England for the newcomer in 2020:



PUBLIC TRANSPORT


Comprehensive and diverse, the TFL (Transport for London) is the region's public transport system and includes The Tube, The Overground, a Tram in South London, National Rail, along with public buses and even ferries along the Thames (Clifton, 2019). The Tube is the most well-known but is probably my least favorite. The double-decker buses are fantastic and National Rail is clean and roomy. Everything overall, however, is mostly clean, relatively quick, and super frequent. 







I have, for instance, about five different methods for getting to my campus near Angel station, all in under an hour. My favorite is the state-of-the-line Great Northern Train, from Hornsey to Old Street. Considered Heavy or Commuter Rail in American terms, it has a lovely blue and grey palette, new seats plus air conditioning. Routes of The Great Northern stretch from Moorgate in the business-minded "City of London" all the way to the historic college town of Cambridge and beyond.


Commuters generally are quiet and conscientious of others and their personal space.


SAFETY


Both Ireland and the UK have very strict gun laws; you feel safe here. The risk of terrorism is a bit higher here than in the US but knife crime is still higher in the US notwithstanding all the media about knife attacks here (Harris, 2018). Unlike the US, there is no political party that actively encourages its people to self-arm like the Republican party does with citizens and guns.





THEATRE


This is where London shines. I've always thought that New York's Broadway hits you in the head with its stimuli and boldness. A jaunt to London's West End feels far more serendipitous. For one thing, London's theatre district has about six blocks of car-free traffic and yet it still feels as active and lively as mid-town Manhattan. Times Square just has a mini-turf park where cars are prohibited; it still has a long way to go in reaching the human scale.




In London there are theaters of all persuasions and sizes, tucked away in corners and alcoves. 
There are about four dozen shows that are playing simultaneously in Zone 1 as we speak. Even with the exchange rate, ticket prices in London are about 53% cheaper than Broadway - this due to England's long embrace of theater as a national pastime and to the fact of actors not being unionized in the UK (Moulder, 2017). For deeper discounts, you can install the app Today Tix or see if they have deals on individual seats on the official city theatre website. Two blocks from Leicester Square, you'll stumble upon a few discount ticket stalls. One London perk when you make it to the venue: you can bring your beverage into the seating area. 

There remain only two lowlights: the buildings are so old that air conditioning, like on The Tube, is a rarity. Also there are no free printed pamphlets. They can be purchased for an average of five pounds each.


WEATHER


November was unseasonably nippy but December was mild and moist. Being at such a high latitude, summer days are long and pleasant. After seven golden but muted autumns in San Francisco, I quite enjoyed the fall season in London. The famous London Plane Tree tends to brown but there are still ample examples of Maples, Poplars and my favorite, White Paper Birch, all giving off a lovely hues in October and November.


London is often cloudy and the rain is gentle and intermittent. I actually found the sun of California to be a bit too harsh (although I do miss the foggy days of a San Francisco summer).




HUMOUR (TAKING THE PISS)


When in doubt, be bold and crack a joke. Self-deprecating jokes are enjoyed but taking the piss out of other is applauded. A joke at another's expense does carry its own risks. Do this gently in private groups, at the pub, or even upon taking a seat at a theatre. Taking the piss out of a third party or outside idea is highly respected and probably the safest choice. Don't talk to anyone on public transport unless they have a cute dog, need a seat or have dropped an item on the floor.





NHS (National Health Service)


It was easy-peasy to get onto the NHS rolls as an Irish citizen. I walked into my nearest clinic or "surgery," filled out a form and three days later I was mailed an NHS number. For urgent matters, my surgery has same-day appointments; all I have to do is call between 10 a.m. and 12 noon and speak with the on-staff nurse.


Upon my first real visit looking to fill a script, I entered a spare room with lights flickering and the undisputed aroma of urine in the air. My doctor was lovely and respectful and said that the UK system was more "responsive." By this, I believe her point was that in the UK, they will only see you when something's wrong. I don't know how common the physical check-up is in UK. They have a wonderful free system that does however leans towards the idea of rationing.


The NHS, born in 1948 under a Labour government (Brain, 2019), is a national treasure that needs to be protected at all costs. Conservatives have been accused of starving the system and Labour politicians accused of bankrupting it. The NHS has wide support across the political spectrum. Boris Johnson just pledged 34 billion pounds to reinvigorate it (Roberts, 2019). The Guardian reports regularly of the effects of Austerity on the NHS including sundry reports of a shortage of beds for children with acute conditions, hospital closures, and staff burnout.


THE ENGLISH PEOPLE



  • fair-minded
  • well-read
  • approving of eccentricity
  • pioneering
  • organized
  • didactic
  • dark-humoured
  • quick-witted
To get to know some genuine English people: join a club, take a class, or join a sports team. Approach an English people (although not on The Tube). Make a joke at another's expense.

Perhaps there is a bit of an island mentality here, a suspiciousness. Like in Hawaii and Ireland, the people of Britain may not open up to your but will generally accept your advances (if you're not a douchebag or a creep).  


As far as cultural curiosity, the English seem to love the Americans, or at least respect them. As an American I oft worry that I am being too loud, overconfident, or enthusiastic but according to my English friends, such traits are respected and encouraged (well, definitely not the loudness). The English believe the world could use a bit more extraversion. When California comes up, several people have given me the same reply: "Why did you leave there for here?"


THE ONE LOWLIGHT


The one lowlight that sticks out in all its spareness (and, frankly, cheapness) is the state of English public libraries. Over 800 have been closed across the UK since 2010 with the bulk being in England (Flood, 2019). The austerity measures of the 2010-2015 Tory/Lib Dem coalition government is often blamed. It's not just library closures; 1 in 7 public library books have been removed.  Hours have also been curtailed and staff cut.

     There are several avid library advocates in England but the onus is often on the council or borough where one lives. A council or borough is similar to a county in the US but it has more regulatory power. In the US, it is often a town or city that runs its own budget. In the UK, financial and regulatory decisions are left to a council here which may include, say, seven towns, villages, or neighborhoods. 
     In 1998, "New Labour" championed a policy called devolution in which power was given to the lesser-populated member countries of the UK (Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland). England having 85% of the population still relies on Westminster. The library cuts have been most severe in England and Wales because the devolved governments of Scotland and Northern Ireland have given their local libraries a strong lifeline. 
     The political neglect in England and Wales is not the only explanation. One library advocate found that libraries, in order to save money, started culling and removing books in 1990 (Chandler, 2019). His hypothesis was that the public discontinued visiting libraries because their information needs were not being met. 
     In the course of my research, I found that the establishing of a public library system in England and Wales was tepid and piecemeal. Unfortunately, the whole Kingdom is still suffering from an underinvestment - which is ironic since I am attending a superb library science postgraduate course here. Also ironic is that England has produced some of the best literary lights. Now people just need a warm, safe space to read about England's literary sons and daughters in the public sphere.




Resources


Brain, J (2019) 'The Birth of the NHS', Historic UK. Available at: https://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/HistoryofBritain/Birth-of-the-NHS/


Chandler, M (2019) 'English library borrowing plummets while US remains stable', The Bookseller (July 9). Available at: https://www.thebookseller.com/news/uk-library-borrowing-plummets-while-us-remains-stable-1036141


Clifton, K. (2019) 'The best alternate Tube maps made by London Underground enthusiasts' Evening Standard (12 November). Available at: https://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/the-best-alternative-tube-maps-made-by-london-underground-enthusiasts-a4284721.html


Flood, A. (2019) 'Britain has closed almost 800 libraries since 2010, figures show', The Guardian (6 December). Available at:

https://www.theguardian.com/books/2019/dec/06/britain-has-closed-almost-800-libraries-since-2010-figures-show

Harris, C. (2018) 'Trump's knife crime claim: how do the US and UK compare?', Euronews (May 6). Available at: https://www.euronews.com/2018/05/05/trump-s-knife-crime-claim-how-do-the-us-and-uk-compare-


Maybin, S (2016) 'How many Britons are entitled to an Irish passport?', BBC (2 September). Available at:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-37246769.

Moulder, E (2017) 'Infographic: West End vs. Broadway', Today Tix (6 November). Available at: https://www.todaytix.com/insider/london/posts/infographic-west-end-vs-broadway.


O'Donnell, D. (2019) 'Ireland among most pro-European countries - survey', RTE (5 March). Available at:

https://www.rte.ie/news/ireland/2019/0305/1034406-eu-ireland-survey/.

https://officiallondontheatre.com/


https://officiallondontheatre.com/tkts/


Roberts, J. (2019) 'Boris Johnson to make £34,000,000,000 NHS pledge in Queen’s Speech', Metro (15 December). Available at: https://metro.co.uk/2019/12/15/boris-johnson-make-34000000000-nhs-pledge-queens-speech-11910437/.




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