Neighborhoods in Profile: The Castro (Part One)

Should I have named this post "Sex and the City?" That's how it feels sometimes, in this neighborhood especially, but that narrative from my fingertips would be deceitful. On the contrary, I find myself in a stable, loving relationship in a town of free love. When I met Mauricio in the Civic Center neighborhood on a Monday afternoon, we caught eyes as I was exiting the trolley. Everyone around us was looking down at their handheld gadgetry; an exercise I've had to mimic in order to keep up with opportunities. Our chance encounter was in late April about five weeks after my arrival. In my big move here, I assumed I was entering a new libertine period of my life especially since I had landed an apartment off unrepentant Church Street. The universe, however, had different plans. That shouldn't stop your curiosity about dating in this city of magic.

The Castro, smack in the middle of the city, was once a middle-class Irish Catholic neighborhood referred to as Eureka Valley. In the mid-60's families started to flee (straight flight?) for the flat, spacious environs of the Sunset and Richmond neighborhoods. On the Bay end of Market Street sits the Ferry Building, our high church of California cuisine. On clear days you can look southwest down the length of this corridor to catch a glimpse of The Castro neighborhood's gargantuan rainbow flag from the Ferry Building. Accordingly, GLBT folks are not just treated as equals in fog city; they're often deferred to.

The Castro's profile grew when Harvey Milk campaigned and secured a City Supervisor position in the changing neighborhood. Milk campaigned from his camera shop at 575 Castro Street (now a Human Rights Campaign office) and became the first openly gay public figure in his 1977 election as representing District 5 (my district today!). He was assassinated on November 27, 1978 by a fellow City Supervisor, Dan White. San Francisco, in 1978, was at its nadir.

In 2012, the Castro is run amok by packs of inebriated 19-year-olds dancing at the clubs or on the sidewalks and by flocks of inebriated 69-year-old stool pigeons at places like Twin Peaks, Harvey's and Moby Dick. On bad days I feel too old and broke to party as well as too young and broke to own real estate. But on good days, the vibes and opportunities of The Castro are infinite with places to socialize, volunteer, dine and shop. Hiking is accessible at Corona Heights Park (also known as Red Rock) or the larger, cruisier Buena Vista Park. It's not uncommon to see gays and lesbians come here from places like France, Brazil, Israel and the Philippines. They'll arrive by themselves, or as a pair or as a group of friends by taking the F Line Streetcar. It can be quite sweet because I know they'll have a little comfort, support and entertainment in the city where I live. If only for a few hours.

The Prop 8 controversy is the latest political issue to suck the air out of the neighborhood. It's been treated like a civic tennis match and was ignited after the Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court had granted same-sex couples the right to marry. The Marriage Battle in California is approaching its 8th, arduous year. You can read the Wikipedia timeline here. In summary, the issue is at an impasse as proponents of Prop 8 are asking the U.S. Supreme Court to back up their bigotry.

This is Part One of a Three-Part Castro Series.